How to Layer Eye Creams When You Have a Sensitive or Damaged Eyelid Skin Barrier from Dry Eyes, Blepharitis, Meibomian Gland Dysfunction MGD

May 4, 2023

If you have dry eyes, blepharitis MGD, and you're also getting into eye creams, let me show you how to layer them so you can really customize it to help your personal eyelid skin barrier.

Even though they're labeled AM and PM, feel free to break the rules and customize it for your needs.

First, let's start off with dry under eyes. This is the most common eye cream related need. Dry under eyes is very common and is mostly from makeup and skincare products such as sunscreen, serums, retinoids, and under eye concealers.

You're going to take PM Eyelid Butter and you're going to apply it on your under eyelid area. You can dot the under eye area with PM Eyelid Butter then spread it with the applicator or a finger. If your under eye area is really dry, you can also do this before you start your day. Some people like to use it under eye makeup and blend their concealer over with a beauty blender.

PM Eyelid Butter is an emollient and very gooey and sticky. That's why it's better to use this at nighttime. It's going to have a good ratio of ceramides, cholesterols and fatty acids to really help restore that lipid layer and also to protect against trans epidermal water loss. Because it's very emollient - it's my favorite for dry upper eyelids, dry eyelid corners, and dry lash lines.

This is AM Eyelid Gel. It's really different than the PM Eyelid Butter. Here, AM Eyelid Gel contains all the luscious botanicals and actives, especially that Vit-A-Like active. I chose Vit-A-Like because it closely mimics the cell turnover action of a retinoid but without all the harsh side effects of drying out the lipid layer. Unlike retinoids, you can use Vit-A-Like during the day since the ingredient is not photosensitive.

Apply AM Eyelid Gel in the morning. I like to think of it as starting your day with a superfood smoothie, but for the eyelid skin! The curious thing about eye creams like AM Eyelid Gel . . . What happens when you have dry eyes? Blepharitis? MGD? You have a weaker eyelid skin barrier which tends to be more sensitive to ingredients that are not rich in emollients like the PM Eyelid Butter. In cases like this, I have my patients layer eye creams especially early on in their eye care journey.

The Blending Technique

First dot the AM Eyelid Gel on the under eyes. Then go ahead and dot and apply the PM Eyelid Butter right over. Use either the applicator or a finger to blend them together directly onto the eyelid skin.

The Layering Technique

Another technique is to actually physically layer the 2 eye creams. AM Eyelid Gel goes first, then the PM Eyelid Butter after. Apply AM Eyelid Gel to the under eye area and rub it in with the applicator or finger and let it fully absorb for about 1 minute. Then apply PM Eyelid Butter over the absorbed AM Eyelid Gel. First layer - AM Eyelid Gel. Second layer - PM Eyelid Butter. One right over the other.

Eyelid skin barrier varies so I encourage you to experiment. If you have a very damaged eyelid skin barrier, PM Eyelid Butter alone is where you want to start then slowly add in AM Eyelid Gel with the blending technique.

Ideally and with time, the layering technique is what you want. That's the goal. Layering is really effective and my favorite because you are allowing that active, the Vit-A-Like (and other botanical complexes) to absorb into the eyelid skin and then applying that PM Eyelid Butter to address trans epidermal water loss.

Love + Healthy Eyes,

Dr. Tanya Gill, xo